Follow this link to a whole new section dedicated to the V2
Type ‘C’ switches – These products evolved from continued customer requests that they needed more space on the handlebars. Slimmer bikes, narrow bars and bulky ride by wire throttle grips all leave less space for switches, so we designed the Type ‘C’ range.
Most bike use a ‘2 bolt’ clamp design to hold the brake pump on the right and the clutch pump/clutch post on the left. We remove this clamp and replace it with one of ours. This new clamp than has an angled face and mounting holes to fit any of our Type C switches.
Currently we have 8 different clamps to suit most manufacturer layouts and we supply one clamp of your choice free with each Type C switch. If you change your brake or clutch parts at a later date, no problem, just change the clamp, not the whole switch.
These are now available as 'plug n play' for the Kawasaki ZX10 from 2016 to suit both the standard and KIT wiring systems.
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I have decided to start pouring out some of the knowledge I have picked up over the years and for no other reason than ‘its good to share’
So as the whim takes I will be adding stuff on these pages and maybe some of it will be interesting or even useful.
This is the first entry.
Last year I spent a heap of time trying to figure out how to get rid of the ABS pump on the new Ducati V4, this was a spin off project while I was doing the same thing for the older 1199, 959 and 899.
The hardware wasn’t a problem as we already have a generic control board that can capture the wheel speed signals and then route them back over the CAN line. Easy, or at least it should be.
The first stages went pretty smoothly, just hacking CAN stuff and running the whole bike on a front and rear wheel speed simulator to get the system to react.
But like all CAN hacking the easy stuff is very easy, and the hard stuff can be seriously hard as there are so many bit flags, uneven channel alignments and just random stuff that seems to happen and no real way to truly understand what they all are, or what is important.
So after hundreds of hours and lots of riding with a data logger it eventually became apparent that we would never actually do this and still keep an element of safety.
The electronics package on the V4 is very clever and not all of it is inside the ECU. It works something like this.
- The ECU controls the throttles (no big surprise there), and probably has built in torque mapping for each gear
- The IMU (inertial platform) sends raw data about the bike movements to the ABS pump.
- The ABS pump also gets the wheel speed data, adds this to the IMU data, adds a bit more from the rider modes, more still from the brake pressures, stirs it all up with some fancy calculations and then spits out throttle (torque) corrections to the ECU both for acceleration and braking.
So to make a product that does all this would pretty much mean we are re-inventing all the work Bosch has done over the years and Ducati during their testing. And I’m not going down that road.
These Yamaha R1 switches are the first in a new product range of plug n play race switches designed specifically to replace the existing brake or clutch clamp. A range of separate clamps are available to suit differing bolt patterns and all are interchangeable, so no need to buy new switches if you change your brake or clutch pump.
View products via these links
4 way left side for standard ECU and wiring
5 way left side for YEC kit and wiring
5 way right side to suit all bikes, including road bikes
Remote On/Off ignition switch with E-Lock control for Ducati Panigale track bikes. 899 / 959 / 1199 / 1299
For bikes where the headlight has been removed this bracket kit holds the twin IMU modules at the correct angle and position.
For more info click here